This is a really nostalgic dish that reminds me of when I was a naughty boy who had just passed my driving test. We used to go out to a great country pub called The Mill, at Withington, about 10 miles outside Gloucester city centre and in the middle of the countryside. It has the local reputation of being the first pub to serve ‘chicken in a basket’. This was a proper posh dish when I was growing up, a great dish in a fantastic setting. This version is inspired by my memories, but with more of a spicy, smoky kick.